Gangtok, Darjeeling and Kolkata

Our College, like every year, had organized a tour for its students, this year to Sikkim & Kolkata. The Tour began on the early morning of 31^st Oct, when all students boarded the train to Mumbai from Margao Railway Station. Travelling through the green valleys and dark tunnels of the Western Ghats, we reached Lokmanya Tilak Terminus by evening. Since we had plenty of time at our hands, we took turns to sit guarding the luggage in waiting room and wander around searching for dinner.

If you ever happen to visit the station, do wait to appreciate the beautiful piece of artistic installation at its entrance. A replica of the works at Ajantha caves, its massiveness takes your breath away.

Later, we boarded the Shalimar Express for Kolkata that night.

The day of 1^st November was spent wholly in train journey, playing UNO, eating regional foods, and chit-chatting. At night, we were really excited to hear about a station named ‘Champa’ that was rumored to be haunted but turned out to be completely fine when we got there, even at late night. It induced many people to become horror-story-tellers for the whole evening though, even the teachers!

We reached Kolkata on 2^nd November, in the afternoon. Now Kolkata is a city where Flipkart delivery boys carry their huge bags around the city on cycles. At least for us Goans, that is a thing astonishing enough about a city. We went to our hotel, freshened up and visited some of the local tourist attractions. Science city had too many scientific things to be seen for us commerce students. But at the time of sunset we were on the ropeway there – the whole city around us, painted in shades of orange. The view was unbeatable! Unfortunately, the Victoria Memorial was closed, being Monday. So we had to click photos with it from outside of the gate. We also did a short metro train ride and walked around the streets in our huge group of 93.

We departed from Kolkata early next morning. From Sealdah we took a train to New Jalpaiguri, reaching there at late night due to delayed train. Sumo cars took us to Hotel Keepsa in Gangtok, in groups of 8 and 9. At Keepsa, sleepy and shivering, we had our dinner and went to bed.

On 4^th November, we visited Tshangu Lake – one of the main attractions in the tour. With the background of ice-topped, rocky mountains surrounding the massive lake, we clicked lots of pictures with each other; sitting on yaks and wearing traditional dresses of Sikkim. All our excitement kept us from the cold. The evening was kept free to take rest in the hotel.

On the next day, we visited spots in and around Gangtok. Bhakthang waterfall is a great place to click pictures with the crashing water. Gunjung monastery stands on the edge of the mountain, giving you a panoramic view of Gangtok Valleys. Curtains of thick fog keep falling on and away from the monastery. Tashi view point is another point to store the valleys of Gangtok in one’s eyes. Ganeshtok offers not only a good view and blessings of Lord Ganesh but also a mini market to buy indigenous gift items. Tibetology museum (Namgyal Institute of Tibetology) stores ancient scriptures and sculptures depicting history of Sikkim and Tibetan Buddhism. After visiting all these places in the morning we left from Gangtok in the evening for Darjeeling, arriving there late in the evening.

May it be Manali, may it be Leh, or may it be Sikkim, driving through the tall peaks dressed with coniferous trees, crossing the bridges over wildly running rivers is always a treat. You have to only experience it once to understand why bikers go to Leh paying thousands but visiting no tourist spots.

On 6^th of November we got up very early, at 3.30 am to be precise, to visit the Tiger Hill. The temperature was freezing, and we kept ourselves warm with cups of hot coffee after our winter-wear failed. It took time, but we stood in patience as a phenomenal sunrise unfolded before our eyes: first bordering a cloud with a thin golden strip and then illuminating the peaks of Kanchenjunga behind us. As sky shone bright, selfie sticks rose from the crowd one by one.

On the way back after sunrise, we visited Yiga Choeling Monastery – popularly known as Ghum Monatery. After breakfast back at the hotel, we visited the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. In the premises of the same lie the remains of Tenzing Norgay – one of the first two individuals to conquer Everest – and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. The Institute houses a museum of many important Everest Missions. Clothing and equipment used for legendary Everest missions, fatal accidents on the peak, and superhuman efforts undertaken by the mountaineers ring a chill up your spine. Later in the day, we visited tea garden of Darjeeling and roamed the markets for shopping.

On 7^th morning, we departed for New Jalpaiguri and en route crossed the Indo-Nepalese border over to visit Pashupatinath Market in Illam, Nepal. Afternoon was marked by visit to Mirik Lake and horse riding and boating activities. We reached Jalpaiguri by late evening.

Next day we took a train to Kolkata, reaching there at night. I can’t resist mentioning this guy we saw in the train. There were many who sang songs and played dholaks, but this young guy had a portable mic system instead. He talked like a professional RJ, and took us by surprise with his voice. He played karaoke on his mic system and sang old tunes to it, including Kishore and Muhammad Rafi. I can’t say when he will appear on a reality show, but he sure earns lots with his current business.

On 9^th November we visited the home of Mother Teresa which is now the headquarter of the Missionaries of Charity. We also visited the famous Belur Math and Kalighat Temple of Kolkata. In the evening, students were free to do shopping in the markets of Kolkata that were still bustling after celebrations of Durga Pujo a few days ago. Everyone finally boarded the train back home, late that night.

After journey on 10^th November, we reached Margao at 2 pm on 11^th November and said goodbyes before parting ways.

The tour was surely a great one. Everyone enjoyed their days, although there were some petty issues which I’m sure always arise when it comes to tours. I’m sure we will all cherish memories of this tour for years to come!

2013 Cycle Expedition: Goa to Kolhapur and back

We had been planning of a big ride in the Christmas vacations since the Diwali. We, here, refers to less of me and more of Mandar Aiya, Shekhar Bidye, and Sudesh Thakur from Kreeda Bharati. As the December turned up on calendars, plans began to take concrete shapes and the four day celebration was finalized.

As per the plan, me, Suraj Umarye and Pranav Tendolkar left at 6.30 from Ponda on 25th of December after a small program and reached Porvorim around 8.30. Other three joined us there: Mandar Aiya, Shekhar Bidye, and Raju Banaulikar. These guys have been riding in Christmas vacations for last three years. Along with me they rode from Bangalore to Goa two years back and then Pune to Goa last year. And the most appreciative thing is that the latter two guys have crossed 40 years, but don’t require any help in crossing 100 km a day! They may go at their own pace, but they complete a century by the end of the day.

Around 8.30am, along with some young guys who were to cycle with us till Mapusa, we began our ride with a very good enthusiasm, sharing tips and tricks with each other.

Our plan was to cross the border of Goa and Maharashtra before Lunchtime, which we of-course failed. Well, our experience had taught us that first day is always the worst of all and the targets are rarely achieved. With stomachs screaming in hunger, we took first halt at a small shop. As a perfect start to our adventure, we were served chilled Bhaji-Pav. Since we were still in Goa, it was Bhaji Pav. Although not literally chilled, it was definitely more cold than “cold”. Taste wise, fabulous! Out there in Maharashtra same dish is sold with tiny tweaks under the title of ‘Pav Bhaji’. 

We crossed the boundary in a short time to reach Banda Junction by 1pm. To reduce the distance, we turned right at the junction into a village road instead of taking the highway. The road was terrible, and for an hour or so we cursed ourselves for not taking the highway. But as we continued, the road unveiled beautiful scenes of Maharashtra villages.

People all around used to look at us like we were aliens. But whenever we stopped, they inquired about us. They asked where we were from, where we were headed, awed in amazement as we answered them. But they never forgot to ask if we had our bellies full. Throughout the villages en route, small hills were decorated with rows of Banana trees. Soothing coolness lingered in the air even at 4 pm. Well, in such an atmosphere, who would have problems!

At around 4.30 we took an half hour halt at another local hotel. We joked and laughed like typical goans, almost everywhere we went. Any stranger would wonder whether we owned that place. After those jokes and tea, around 5pm we climbed on our bikes again, ready for the Amboli Ghat. It was a 16 km climb, and we were quite sure that it was going to be the most challenging part for the day.

As we neared the Ghat, me and Mandar took the lead and continued. He got songs playing on his cellphone and I took to humming my favourite songs. I didn’t stop since he continued, and he continued since I didn’t stop. At one point both of us mutually considered taking a halt, but continued without giving up under the argument that we were not tired enough.

No-one from the group was visible behind us, but we didn’t stop until we reached the end and took down the whole 16 km Ghat in a single effort, without any breaks! Moments back, the challenge seemed impossible, since we had already done about 80 km for the day, but we had done it! Both of us waited till other four joined us. All 6 of us reached the Green Amboli Hotel by 8 pm.

The day’s ride amounted to 108 km, in almost 8 hours of riding with average speed of 13.7 kph

We took rest and had our Dinner in the Hotels of Amboli. Tiredness had already taken over. I had my right bum paining, yeah only that single one. But no-one had lost their spirit, and we joked and laughed loudly as we walked in the lonely night at Amboli.

 

Next day, soon after the promise of hot bathing water was left unfulfilled, we left for Kolhapur at 7 am. Since Amboli is a hill-station, there was a considerable chill in the air. And it was winter. But we had to start early to take down a challenge of approximately 120 km. So we warmed up our bodies with hot tea, and climbed on our bikes.

Today’s ride was a high speed ride, at least for first few hours. The slopes from Amboli to Ajara gave us good speed boost. As usual, people crossing us in cars and bikes awarded us with curious looks. Last day’s banana plantations had been replaced by Sugarcane plantations, but the cold still lingered in the air. With few breaks in between, we reached Ajara by 10 and had some Misall paav there, one of the most famous dishes of Maharashtra. We rode through the green fields towards Uttur, which is 50 km from Amboli. We reached there by 1 in afternoon. Pranav had caught speed today and was the first one to reach Uttur. We had the best Lassi of our life there, at a local dairy brand named Swastik Dairy. Each of us had 2 packets of Lassi, and that was our Lunch for the day.

Since the sun was high, we had a break of an hour or so in a tree shade. The sleep I had there, it was hardly for half an hour, but seemed infinite. Such breaks give you huge boosts for the evening run and a lot of relaxation too. In fact, way more than what you can get on your living room couch.

We touched the Bangalore-Kolhapur highway by 5. The Goa Ways hotel there, provided us with a very good Misall again. And now that it was all highway, we accelerated our bikes to more than 25 kmph. If you have a good bike and willingness of high speeds, highways are something to fall in love with. They are plain, straight, and with no disturbances; except for the headwinds.

But even after so much speed, we got late. Kolhapur was reached in the dark of 9 pm. Before getting to our arranged residence, we had to have our food, since hotels closed down at 10.

We had dinner in Karveer Bhojanalay, just a veg Thaali, but a treat to the tongue and got to the Sangh (RSS) Karyalay by 11. No bathing obviously, thanks to the cold.

The Day’s ride: 122 km, riding time: 7h 20m, average speed: 16.3 kmph

 

On the third day, we could not bath in the morning due to absence of hot water. Some inhumane guys like Mandar managed to do it with cold water, others decided to go with International Human Laws.

We began at 9, and sprinted on the highways in top gears. Bullock carts were now to be seen everywhere, with jingling bells in the necks of every other bull. Today was the first day when target was reached on time as we reached the Goa ways hotel, 50 km from Kolhapur at 1.30 pm. Again, we had misall pav, followed by Shahu Lassi and took a short nap on the edge of the service road, vehicles whooshing past us.

After the nap, me, Pranav and Suraj took up a lead on the highway which proved very boring for us three. It was a lot of distance to be covered and the night ascended upon us before we were 30 km short of the destination. For the other three members to join us, we had to take a halt of almost an hour. We could not proceed without them since we had no contacts of the place of residence. So we waited, at a lonely bus stop, under the street light, trying to figure out what bothered us more; hunger, boredom or cold.

Yeah, the cold had reached its highest point in the expedition and we took out our sweaters for the first time. Shivering with cold, we reached Belgaum at 9 in the night, having dinner immediately and residing at the Belgaum Sangh Karyalay. Sleep took over us around 11. Now who would dare to think of taking a bath in shivering cold, with every cell of body drained of energy in the highway sprint, and bored of waiting for so long?

Day’s distance was 114.8 km, with average speed of 15.3 kmph with riding time of 7 and a half hours.

 

On the fourth and the last day, we met Shintre Sir. He was with us on escort vehicle for Bengalore-Goa ride, 2 years back. While chatting with him, we stuffed ourselves with Idli-vada, said him a good-bye and left belgaum at 9, bums paining for the last time. Me and Pranav, fed up of waiting for others, took to “top gears and small halts policy”, crossing 40 km by 12 in afternoon. Since Pranav urged me to take a break, we stopped at a small hotel.

I didn’t have a good opinion about that hotel. Itdidn’t have a single customer in it, and didn’t hav Misall-Pav either. So we ordered whatever that was available: Chapati Bhaji and an Omelet. It was exactly the taste that we needed to keep going at the pace that we had maintained since morning. The ghat was still 30 km, so we didn’t wait for others.

We took hardly any stops in the way, and rallied down the Chorla Ghat in high speeds by 3.30 pm. The expedition was to end at Sanquelim, so we could do nothing but wait. We got into a restaurant, and placed a typical goan order: bhaji-pav, bhakkampedha, and tea.

First thing that gave us a homely feeling, was the warm coastal air. It had taken over gradually as we came down the ghat. And the second one was the fragrance of tea. Goan tea can never be tasted anywhere else. It is very minutely stronger than the maharashtrian, but that’s what gives it the goan touch, making you feel at home. I personally believe that every area has a tea-culture of its own.

After a huge break of 2 hours and a lot of inquiring by locals, others joined us two finally and the marvelous expedition ended.

It ended with a promise of many small ventures in the days to come and a similar big one in next Christmas.

It was a fantabulous cycling expedition, but also a food fiesta. Three states, tasty dishes, burning sun, soothing cold breeze, and a package full of happiness.

 

P. S.: The expedition ended also with a promise of paining, soar bums for next couple of days.